Quick drive back to Moscow

nothing to exciting to report today put about 500 miles on the bike trying to get to and across the border then away form it so they cant change their minds lol.

Next stop the town of Tver I will be spending a few days there at the girlfriends house. Relaxing and eating off so wonderful home cooked food!!!!

Not sure on a exact tally at the moment but I know for sure I am over 5,000 miles for the trip to this point!

The front tire is looking rough but I think shes gonna pull through the last 400 or so miles!!! I hope

So I am back now in Moscow! Been at work for a week . Finally got my new front tire so thought I would show you guys quickly. There is a pic of the new one mounted next to the old one.... I think I had at least a good 2 to 3,000 more miles in her...

Total I traveled 6,000 miles or 9600 KM!!!! I did to much this year in to small of a time frame. But it was still amazing!!!

Thanks for tagging along!!! Until next time

Sleeping on Cliffs and Denied Entry to Russia

The next day I planned on getting as close as possible to the Russian border near the city of Rostov na Dony about 700km away. I couldn't find a hotel so ended up sleeping on a cliff in this little inlet right off the Azov Sea it was nice and quiet just the thing the doctor ordered!

So I got t the border this morning on the highway m23. Ukraine side no problem took about 30 minutes mainly talking and answering questions about the bike.

Russia side ohh god. The tell me to move the bike out of the way its going to be a while... I got special permission to cross the border here, its even written ON THE VISA in Russian "Special Permission to Cross the Border on the m23 highway," They said no it not a normal border crossing for me, diplomat. I say well I know but look it say SPECIAL PERMISSION.... so they take my passport and go to investigate. An hour passes they come back nope no not happening. I say look at my old visas they all have special permission to enter and it worked then how come this is different so they leave again.

I call my connections they give me phone numbers of the guys who gave me special permission to enter here. When the cronies come back still no. I ask who they called nobody so I give them these phone numbers to call. They refuse and leave again. This went on for 4 hours... I wasn't mad it wouldn't do any good anyhow up to this point I was being as kind and courteous as I could be.

Finally they came back and it was obvious I wasn't getting through. So I needed to go back to Ukraine but they had my passport... I ask for it back and they say ohh sign these papers first... Why? ohh it just says you were here we said no and now your going back and Ukraine will accept you back. I say ohhh you know I, like you , cant read Russian. I believe you what it says and you believe me what my visa says but it doesn't matter. He gets a little upset and says no matter I cant go through. I started laughing at this point it was a bit comical. 

He says this isn't a joke! I responded this isn't but you are. Then I got escorted back by 2 guys the half a mile to the Ukraine border. When we got there the Ukraine guys asked whats up. I showed them my visa and asked if they could read that. When they said yes of course I smiled and said good could you explain to them because I guess they cant read... The Ukrainians loved it and the Russians were sooooo pissed at this point. I had a good time with it in the end I may have lost that fight but I got in enough licks to make me sleep good tonight

I started driving north I have ended my night at a biker hotel its pretty nice and I get a 20% discount since I am on a bike. Tomorrows goal get across the border at my normal crossing point...

Odessa and Southern Ukraine

Sorry I am lacking on pictures but haven't been taking so many of late. 

So I finally got to Odessa and its a huge happening town. 

I am not to fond of big towns in general and since I was a little down from the whole bribing incident I decided after an hour to keep going down the road.

Ended up in a town called Mikialov or something like that. Sprung for a "good" hotel on main street. I had some things I wanted to attend to on the bike and the parking garage guy ended up hanging out with me for a few hours just talking. We didn't understand everything the other said but we both enjoyed the company. Then I showered and just roamed for a while. I was able to get me mind off things felt better and slept good.

Transnistria and bribes

I woke up after the wedding and headed out across Moldova. I was intending to make it to Odessa. It wasn't far and if things went good at the border I could be there for a late lunch.

Some Moldovan country side

The east side of Moldova wasn't quiet as beautiful and the west but it was nice. I ended up passing Chiseneau and headed towards the twilight zone....

Transnistria is a little strip of land in Moldova that has claimed its independence. It is unrecognized by about half the world but the other half supports it and there are a few military troops from Russia mainly there. I asked if I could go through Transnistria and the answer from everyone was ya no problem.

I am headed down the road come around a big bend and then BAM 4 guys with rifles and 2 tanks in the middle of the road... I don't know much but I know not to mess with a guy with a gun and if he has a tank well ya. I slowly with no sudden movements turned around and went back to a police station I saw. He pointed me in the direction to head and went off that way.

I get to the "border check point" Moldova doesn't have anyone there only Transnistria checks you out. They were nice and one guy took me around to the 3 different buildings I needed to go to for all the paperwork all was well!!! I stopped in Tiraspol and got some money exchanged, since they have their own currency, and had some food and looked around. Then headed off towards Ukraine.

On the way I was stopped for a document check which ended up being fun with the police guys just wanting to see the bike so I let them sit on it and honestly they never asked for documents!

Then I got to the border. I go to get out and they guy says theres a problem.... OK whats that you don't have a Moldovan exit stamp, I was expecting this from what I had read online. So he calls his boss and I get put in a tiny room with this guy with like 4 stars on his uniform and all kinds of medals. He gives me the run around and finally hints at a bribe. So I just blatantly asked how much you want. I had been at this for 45 minutes already and it was getting old. He says ohh I didn't say anything about money, with a big shit eating grin on his face. So I tell him enough bullshit you and I both know you want money how much.... His smile is gone now and he realizes I am not just a dumb foreigner with no language capabilities, My Russian is best for causing trouble. I give him the equivalent of 5 dollars he says more so I go in 2 dollars more so I go to 10 he sits there and finally gives my passport back and I go on.

I felt so bad I never been made to feel like that before... It was a terrible experience for me.

I get to the Ukraine side and theres a big line. They had one guy roving the line looking for suspicious things and I talked to him told him what happened and he was pretty upset about it. He says wait a minute and then waves me to the front. They apologized for how I was treated leaving Transinistra and pretty much just checked me through their border in 5 minutes. They were so nice it made me feel a bit better.

So I was off towards Odessa still not feeling to happy and just thinking of what I could of or should of done differently in the situation.

Dracula's Castle and Moldova

Next day I hit up Brans Castle (Draculas Castle). That was a complete waste of time... WOW I cant describe how disappointed I was so I will just leave it at that.

This was the coolest part of the whole castle

Most of the castle was like an 1800's version of Barbies play house

Then I took off for Moldova! Long boring ride not the best roads but got to the border about 5:00. Made it out into Moldova about 8:00. I was so frustrated it took so long and tired.

Then it happened that most amazing ride! The road was good the sunset was amazing and it all just melted away! The frustration and tiredness all gone. The sky was as big as I can remember ever seeing. All around were rolling hills of vineyards!

I remember thinking this is it this is why I do trips like this. I have meet some amazing people on this trip don't get me wrong but this was one of those moments. It didn't matter where I was from where I was who I was what bike I was on nothing it just mattered I was there in that time. Just amazing I hope everyone has a moment like that sometime or another.

I ended up stopping at the first hotel I saw. It was getting dark and I hate driving at night. Guess I am just getting old or something but with the glasses when a car passes the other direction I cant see a thing.

In luck they had one room left!!! I took it! They were having a wedding so I wanted a beer and theres a wedding with beer 2+2=4 right???? So I asked some of the younger folks and we were all talking and had a couple beers then I would assume Grandma saw me and I got invited to leave.

As I was heading back to my room I was content ehh 2 beers Ill call it a night. then one of the Waiters grabbed me and we went to the kitchen. there were a couple people and a ton of food and Cognac!!!! I ended up doing like 8 or 9 shot of cognac with god knows how many people!

Of course I didn't have my camera since it freaking died................

Transfăgărășan Road, Romania

Next stop Transfăgărășan! I am coming at it from the back side since well that's close to where TransAlpania ended. God is this road I am on terrible... I swore I was in Russia again just more turns... and it goes on and on and on. At this point I am getting frustrated and thinking seriously this is in no way gonna be worth this. I would rather eat liver and onions than ride this, my god so many cars so bad roads ugh...

Then I get to a point where there is a big freaking mountain in front of me. I see something way at the top and assume the road goes to there somehow....

I head up started at 500meters.

Its a little better road but I am still thinking wow no way best road in the world no way!!!! The views were spectacular though I will say that. Get to the top and I said that's it really... Well a few more hero shots and time to go on.

Now there is a tunnel at the top of the mountain and I thought I had just road the infamous Transfăgărășan. so I am at 2200 meters now, yes that fast. I go through the tunnel and on the other side its like nothing I have ever seen!!! I mean I couldn't stand up to get off the bike it was that exciting!!!

I start down the road and its crazy!!! Turn after turn after turn I honestly don't know what to say. The view was marvelous! Its truly something to be in awe of. I cant imagine what it took to build that thing!!

I will say though for a motorcycle its not the best... The pavement is pretty good but on every corner its like someone took one of those big machines they use to grind up old asphalt roads and lightly hit every corner with it. There is tiny about 3/4" wide and maybe between1/4 and 1/2" deep grooves all the way across every turn. So on the bike its a bit alarming. In a car I don't think you would notice them much. If you ever been on a road they just ground up a layer of asphalt on it similar to that though not quiet as bad...

None the less amazing road and worth seeing and driving I would say. Though for motorcycles not number one on my list. But that's for another discussion.

TransAlpania Road, Romania

Came into Romania near Arad

So I ended up camping beside a big Honda Goldwing pulling a trailer. 

The next morning I was up early and headed to Transalpania road. Its a mountain pass that has only recently been paved, dang it, but there is still a few rough spots!!! I filled up with gas and headed out!!!

The road was nice it was a bit chilly but it was fun! Nice turns and NO TRAFFIC!!!!

I got to a few parts that weren't paved but only for a few hundred meters at a time so no biggie.

Then I turn off on another highway to met up with the Transfăgărășan!!!!!!!!!!! AKA "The Best Road in the World" or so say Top Gear among many others.

On the way there I relize I am not seeing any gas stations.... So I pull over and hit the nearest gas station button on the GPS and about shat myself! Nothing remotely close according to it. So I open the map and the nearest one is still a ways off. I figured it a thousand ways and if the map and gps were right I would be 10 miles short... That was with me stretching it to get the 10 miles short... So I head out, luckily I was at 1700meters so I just coasted the whole way down about 15 miles!!! score gas saved!!! 

Then I felt something hit my foot.....

Look down and the damn fog light on the right side was just hanging by it's wires!!! So I pull over and see that again one of the bolts has vibrated out AGHHHH I guess that locktight I used was definitely no good! what now... WAIT when I left those guys in Lviv they gave me some spare bolts maybe just maybe one will work! I find it and yes m6 just what I needed but about 1/4" to long.... ok what now what now.... washer or spacer something!!! Then I remember the I-hooks I had been using to tiedown my gear to. They were of course American Standard the only stinkin thing on the bike, that will change, BUTTTTT they each had a nut on them that might just might be forced on the M6 bolt and work. So I take off one nut and crew the I-hook back down all the way. Shure as birds fly I was able to make it work!!! not perfect but will get me down the road!!!!

So now im back on the gas thing I get to the bottom of the hill and I see a sign that says Gas 1 km... Maybe maybe at this point I am at 110 miles and know what's coming. then there it was like a glimpse of heaven!!!! I almost killed the old lady running it when I gave her a hug!!!!

The adventure continues

Driving day through Croatia and Hungary

I woke up the next morning and just decided to drive and drive... Didn't stop much headed to Croatia

then north in Croatia into Hungary my goal was Szegrad.

Somewhere in Hungary

I didn't make it decided to shut her down for the night about 100 miles short. Found a hotel and since I hadn't showered since I left the Warrior Meeting, I showered then got caught up on Internet stuff here with all of you lovely folks!!!!

I am now in Arad Romania!!!! Crossing the border was a bit of a hassle. the normal why is the bike registered in Russian and your American.... We cant read either your passport or the Bikes information soooo what now. it was about an hour of which I am convinced most of it was so they could bring everyone out of the office to look at the bike!

Italian Alps and Slovenian Back Roads

After waking up I headed out. I decided I was headed to Treiste. Why I had never been there so why not. Getting into Italy the scenery was AMAZING!!! The roads werent far behind either.

After a couple hours of marvelous roads FINALLY it happened! I road up over a mountain that was welll not the most well maintained!!! It was paved but it was obvious its not that used.

The road was a little rough at first going up the mountain but it was so much fun I didnt mind much. Coming down the other side now wow that was a bit hairy. It was extremely steep I was in first gear trying to let the engine brake for me and still having to use brakes!!! I was busy trying not to shat myself and go out of control!

I didnt notice I must of been riding the rear brake... As soon as I got back to normal roads and not so steep the rear brake stopped working.... I needed gas and stopped and let everything cool down and its back to normal now... But that one time it didnt work ohh that will scare ya.

I headed towards Trieste and passed over a large bridge just as to Military Helicopters were doing some kind of training, I assume, they flew right under the bridge. I tried for a pic but wasnt fast enough...

Out of the mountains and into Italy more it was getting really hot. I stopped and ate some pizza and decided screw Trieste I am headed towards those mountains over there and Slovenia. I get into the mountains and onto another one of my favorite back roads through the mountains only this one was hard packed gravel!!!! Even better! the views were amazing and I saw nobody the entire time!!!

Got into a valley and saw dark clouds behind me and said ohh I might want to find cover.... In front of me it looks like a tornado has came through with small tree branches all over but I dont feel any wind so dont understand why. Then I turn a corner and WHAM I found the wind!!! I am fighting it and I mean seriously fighting trying to find a place to stop. I see this brick house they are building and pull in there hoping to just get out of the most of the storm. Just as I get stopped I hear a big racket. I look around the corner of the building just in time to see part of the roof being blown off a house down the road!!! 

I wait the storm out, about 1 hour, then head out again in search of a camp ground. On the way I stopped about 6 times to help move trees and branches out of the road man it was crazy.

I found a campground and stayed and talked to a couple Britts and one American guy there for the night. Went to bed it was clear skies over head!! About 1 AM was another storm from hell. My tent made it through fine but one of the other guys there wasnt to lucky. He will be buying a new tent.