Berlin

We put aside the motorcycle problem for the day and ventured out. It was scheduled to rain most of the day so we hit up some Museums

First up was Check Point Charlie.

We went though a museum about the Check Point but they didnt want us taking photos so here is the outside 

The museum was ok nothing great I thought but worth while.

After that we headed over to the museum of Terrors.

It had a huge outdoor exhibit, under a roof though, with part of the wall still standing. 

There wasnt much inside except some photos and a lot, and I mean a lot, of information. I didnt get any photos of the inside. 

The museum was free and man it, for me, has probably been one of the most interesting museums I have seen in Berlin. A lot of good info many of it I either didnt know at all or wasnt clear on. Worth a stop in to see for sure! 

We ate some lunch and walked over to the Technical Museum. It was packed and looked huge so we decided to put it off for another day and get there first thing in the morning but here is a pic from the outside 

We went to the East German Moto museum. It was pretty interesting. Alot bikes most westerners have never heard of. I spent alot of time telling my dad about the different manufacturers, I studied them alot in Russia while looking ot buy some old bikes.

An old Moskva! 

He had a ton of MZ's 

Some sweet scooters! 

After that we called it a day and headed back to the hotel. It wasnt an extremly long day but standing around in museums seems to wear me out so much faster than just walking around all day. We were both dog tired and ready to relax 

Decisions decisions and the end of the trip.

I had some decisions to make. I was having issues getting money from the ATM's and didnt have enough cash to go on seeing everything i wanted to. After some thought I decided to head to Tver and stay at Okcana's home the rest of my vacation. There I could relax and she is an amazing cook!

So off I went. First through the town of Ustyuzhna. I wasnt expecting much from any of the towns I passed through. Considering was was going through the middle of the Tver district and nobody I had ever talked to said there was anything interesting there.

I ran into this church

I was kind of smitten with it and right across the street was their memorial to the war.

Then down the way I went until I ran into this church on the outskirts of town.

Something about it was just amazing

So i eventually kept driving and the road turned to dirt/gravel again. This only lasted for about 100km though so it wasnt to bad.

Finally made it to Bezhesk where I saw this bus as I was waiting for a train to pass

After Bezhesk there was this old abandoned church. 

After that smooth sailing to Okcanas house about 400 km total for the day.

So I stayed at Okcanas house the last few days of my vacation. Finally being able to find an ATM that would give me some money on the next to last day of my vacation.

Saturday night we ordered some pizza and ate and relaxed. I woke up Sunday morning about 3:00 am the pizza I had eaten didnt agree with me! I had to get home on Sunday so about 7 am I felt well enough to give it a shot. It felt like a long ride home, 160 km, hoping and praying I didnt have to make and "emergency" stop. Luckily I made it and have had time to recover now.

I came up with this map. Thats the approximate route I took

Total of about 3,600 miles or about 5800 km! I think something about 400 miles, 650 km, were on dirt or gravel roads.

Bike now has just shy of 43,000 miles on it.

Cant wait for the next adventure!

WWII in Vologda

On my way out in the morning I stopped here to take some photos. It is some kind of recreation of an ancient ritual site where magic was performed.....

Started to drive to Vologda. It was 600km away but luckily the road was almost new the whole way!!!!! 

Found this little church along the way dedicated to the people from the area who died in WWII

Finally got to Vologda and was needing some more money, the whole tire fiasco added up in a hurry. tried to go to a ATM my credit card was denied.. tried my Bank card denied.... Called them up and they said ohh its not us it probably has to do with the sanctions from America placed on Russia....

Well **** I guess I am not staying in a hotel tonight.

Anyways I checked out Vologda This building was used as a hospital during the war.

During the early part of the war in Russia a lot of people were evacuated to this area as the Germans advanced. So there are a lot of graves around from the wounded men who were evacuated and didn't make it. After the war a lot of POW's were kept around the area also.

Anyways Vologda walking park

Lenin saying hello as normal

There is also a Kremlin in Vologda though I somehow failed to get a decent picture of it. Here is the best I got you can see it in the background

After that I headed on down the road first to Cheropovits I had been told there was a grave/monument there to the POW's that died in the camps. There is supposedly an American buried there.... I never did find it and it was rush hour so I kept on going. Finally found a place to camp but it was horrible so I didn't get any photos.

Another tire and a day at the beach

So after the cemetery I started with the closest place which was the Yamaha Dealership. I walked in saw new motorcycles and boats and thought I had hit the jackpot!

Then I was informed they had no tires in stock since it was Saturday they could order some and maybe they would be in by Tuesday.

I went to the next place same story only scooter tires.

Last place I knew of I walked in and the Salesman and Mechanic where the only ones there. They said no they had no tires. I was a little dejected and about to leave when the Mechanic stopped me and started making some phone calls. I thought he located one. We were having issues communicating though as to how I could get there. Finally the Slaesman said get in my car I will take you. So off we went the salesmen explaining that essentially the shop was closed because the Mechanic couldn't make any sales.

We got there but they had no tire. So we stopped in a car tire place on our way out to ask if they knew of anyone. They said wait we have ONE motorcycle tire in stock. I am thinking yayaya ok ok so they bring it out and its a 190/50/17! Not my ideal size but I think it will work

We strike a deal that if it doesn't work I can bring it back for my money back. so off the a tire changing place

So for the third time in about 5 days off the rear tire comes.

IT WORKED!!!

I headed back to the motorcycle shop to tell them the good news. I tried to give the Salesmen, Pavel, some gas money but he would have none of it. So I offered to buy lunch but again no. So I asked when they closed I can come back and buy a couple beers for them. Finally it was decided that I would go to the lake that evening with Pavel and his friends and I would buy some beer!!!

I had almost no clean clothes but I did what I could then I had no sunscreen lotion and getting burned sounded no fun. We all drank and had a god time though.

Pavel and I

Friends

We all had a good time and went back to the city for a couple more beers. After that I went to my hostel where I got to listen to someone snore like a chainsaw all night

Next day I woke up and went to an outdoor museum Mallie Karellie. it is the largest outdoor museum in Russia, and I believe Europe. It is dedicated to wooden architecture

They have taken old buildings from around the Russian north and moved them here for the museum

An example of how the onion domes were constructed back in the day

After that I headed back to Arkhangelsk to see the downtown a little better eat then head down the road

To the victors in the 1918 war

A new church being built

I stopped by the police station on my out of town to ask about my missing license plate again. They looked at me like I was stupid and told me not to worry about it just keep my documents and head back to Moscow it will be fine

I saw this Monastary on the side of the road and decided to check it out

Then I saw these old buildings off in the distance I wanted to check out. I couldn't figure eout what road to take so I took one and ran into some kids about 14 years old. I asked them about the buildings they were just staring in amazement at me. Finally one said ohh ya its a big building. Well is this the road to it? uhhh ya. ok is it far? uhhh no probably no.

With that I continued on only to figure out it wasn't the right road lol kids....

Finally I got there it was an old church built in 1688

this old church was beside it also falling apart

After the old chuch I found I started looking at the GPS and the next big town I wanted to check out was 700km away... It was almost 6:00pm so I decided to start looking for a camping spot. I try to start looking around 6:00 sometimes I find one real quick other times it takes an hour or 2. Tonight was one of those times I just couldn't find anything good.

Finally settled on this place

British Soldiers in Russia, WWI

So I finally made it to Arkhangelsk. I found a hotel and decided the next day I would see the city and see if I couldn't find a new tire....

I scoured the internet and found a few leads on places to try. Though first I decided to hit up a cemetery since it was only a few blocks away.

This memorial is to the guys from WWII again. This was a port helping to get goods in and to the surrounded Lenningrad, now st. Petersburg.

This though is the reason I wanted to check this out. Below is the cemetery for some WWI guys. Not just any guys though in 1918 England and America sent soldiers here to Russia, Arkhangelsk and Siberia I believe, Quiet a few died of diseases and the cold and from the fighting that took place here.

Most of the men left there now are British. America repatriated most of the dead from this little piece of history in the 1930's, I believe.

There are something like 30 Americans left in Russia buried in various places. 

During this excursion the Americans and British were fighting against communism. There was a lot of supplies delivered to Arkhangelsk to help Russia in WWI when Russia pulled out America and England used the excuse of not wanting the supplies to filter to the Germans so they sent troops there to protect them. Then the goal of the soldiers changed as time passed to fighting against the communists.

Next door to this cemetery was some for other wars in Russia history. This one for the men who died in Afghanistan

Restricted Area and blown out tire, again

The next day I was headed north out of Kargopol. I was a little hesitant to take this route because I knew there was a military base on it that is a closed area. I didn't know if the road would go through but I was assured the road was not closed and no check points. So off I went!

Sorry for the blurry pics but it was saw mill on the road. Just in front of me I could see dirt roads... A old man on a scooter stopped and I asked him how far the dirt went. 35 km and that's itt then smooth sailing to Arkhangelsk!

The road was bad but not absurdly bad.

Here is the road. I they lay logs down first then build the road over it. in places the logs are starting to come out.

Then the fun began. just got off the gravel road! filled up with gas got down the road 10 miles and the rear end got all wobbly on me.... Pulled over and sure as **** its flat. Tried to air it up nope not happening. So I started trying to flag some down.

About the 2nd car that passed stopped and this guy was there. Told me 8km further was a tire repair shop. I told him I cant drive it like this so he asked if I can take the tire off. I looked at him smiled and said ohh ya.

So it began. First take everything off the bike. Get the rear end apart as far as possible. then lay it on its side. OHHH **** wait pick it up pick it up gas is going everywhere. ok the gas cap doesnt seal completely so drain fuel into a can then try again.

This is how we left it. Some want to lower the rear well how that for lowered!

We got it fixed up came back and put it on the bike. Then he invited me for vodka. I said no way man its only noon. Yes I understand its Friday but damnit where is my license plate.... ohh **** Thanks for everything I and going to head down the road heres some money for helping me.

Got down the road and came into another 20 miles of gravel road. finished that up and stopped for a break and another biker stopped we talked and ended up riding together until he turned off. 

I got to the main road between Arkhangelsk and Moscow. I had intended on going to Arkhangelsk but after the last 3 days and now with out a license plate had started to doubt it.

There was a gas station so I stopped to clean myself up and think. The sign said Moscow 1000km Arkhangelsk 130..... I thought about it and that DH Lawerence quote came to mind. " I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop dead from its bough without ever having felt sorry for itself". I said **** I cant go to Moscow now just over a little run of bad luck. I wanted an adventure well its turning into one. I cant call myself a biker if I take my ball and go home over a couple flat tires and a license plate.

So now here I am in Arkhangelsk for the night about to turn in!